PROSPETTICAMENTE, CON CLAUDE MONTANA
Il filo conduttore di tutta l’indagine svolta in merito al designer belga Martin Margiela è stato il concetto di prospettiva, ossia lo sforzo di guardare alle cose da diverse angolazioni, da diverse prospettive appunto, per osservare la realtà in modo differente, e spesso sorprendente. Ho mosso la ricerca dalla valenza positiva che il termine decostruzione racchiude in sé. Decostruire infatti non equivale a distruggere, è al contrario un tentativo positivo e propositivo di sperimentare nuove forme, proprio quelle nuove forme che prendono vita nelle creazioni del designer belga, dove geometrie e lunghezze incontrano sovrapposizioni, scomposizioni e ricomposizioni (www.thedummystales.com/martin-margiela-part-1/). E quella che ne risulta non è un’ immagine di donna necessariamente concettuale o austera, ma sicuramente una donna in contro tendenza e diversa, perché guarda essa stessa alle cose con occhi diversi (www.thedummystales.com/martin-margiela-part-2/). La nostra ricerca legata al make-up è voluta partire anch’essa dall’atto del guardare, guardare in modo differente, e si è concentrata sulla zona degli occhi. Con il window make-up (www.thedummystales.com/window-make-up/) abbiamo oscurato con il trucco tutto il viso di Lùcia lasciando in chiaro la zona degli occhi, a voler rappresentare una sorta di finestra aperta su un mondo tutto da scoprire. Il viso come fosse un mappamondo, il mondo così come lo conosciamo coperto, gli occhi liberi di indagare senza pre-giudizi e pre-concetti. Con il blindfolded make-up (www.thedummystales.com/the-blindfolded-make-up/) abbiamo al contrario coperto gli occhi di Lùcia con del nastro isolante. Esercizio di stile opposto, ma identico risultato. Se gli occhi, lo strumento deputato alla vista, vengono coperti allora è necessario guardare al reale con altri strumenti, bisogna cercarne di nuovi. E noi abbiamo inteso guardare con le emozioni, i sentimenti e non da ultimo l’immaginazione. Senza sovra-strutture, senza assiomi, senza pre-giudizi o pre-concetti. Così, solo con l’immaginazione, come fa il mio bambino di due anni che disegna un mondo non ancora condizionato da schematismi e regole. Ed è un mondo ancora tutto a colori il suo (www.thedummystales.com/deconstruction/). Cosa che mi ha fatto riflettere non poco.
Photo by Nils Rossi
Translation by Chris Alborghetti
THE DUMMY REVEALS ITSELF WHILE WEARING CLAUDE MONTANA VINTAGE JACKET
The overarching aim of this study of the Belgian designer Martin Margiela has been to explore the perspective concept in depth, that is the effort to observe and look at the world as well as reality from a different angle and consequently from a different perspective too. I commenced this study thinking of the positive connotation that the term deconstruction embodies. Deconstruction in fact, should not be equated with destruction. On the contrary, it is a great attempt to experiment new shapes. For instance think of those shapes brought about by the Belgian designer. In his works, geometries, lengths, widths and depths denote superimpositions, decompositions and recompositions too (www.thedummystales.com/martin-margiela-part-1/). Out of this way of interpreting art, comes out a mental image of woman which is neither conceptualised or austere, but rather nonconformist. Consequently we get the image of a being that is seen differently from the classic stereotype of woman and as a result from her peers since she herself looks at things from a different perspective (www.thedummystales.com/martin-margiela-part-2/) . The starting point in this study which is connected with make-up, was the way in which people look at things. In this respect, it emerged that people look at as much as see the world, reality and common things differently. This is the reason why we focused on the eyes. By means of the window make-up (www.thedummystales.com/window-make-up/) we have obscured the Lùcia’s visage but the eyes area, as a way to portray the eyes as a sort of wide open window that overlooks a world that has yet to be discovered. Thus, the face could be seen as if it was a globe, and therefore as the world the way we know it, covered, whereas the eyes which are uncovered could be understood as something free to explore without prejudices or preconceptions. In addition, although through the opposite make-up technique, the blindfolded make-up (www.thedummystales.com/the-blindfolded-make-up/), we covered Lùcia’s eyes by wrapping some black insulating tape around her face, we achieved the same result anyway. As the eyes are the instrument through which we see (the world as well as reality), it implies that if they are covered we have to see (the world as well as reality) with other instruments, and therefore through feelings, sensations, emotions and last, but by no means least, imagination. If we looked at as well as see the world and reality as my little, pure and natural toddler who is two does, we would get rid of superstructures, axioms, dogmas, prejudices, preconceptions. To my son the world is colourful in every sense, his way to see and interpret the world, reality and life has made me think a lot (www.thedummystales.com/deconstruction/).
Photo by Nils Rossi
Translation by Chris Alborghetti
